It’s not unusual for people with gluten sensitivity to report that they can enjoy breads, pasta, and pastries while traveling in France or Italy. They have an easier time digesting these foods there than when they eat them in the U.S. Here are a few insights that may shed light on why this is.
First of all, not all wheat flour is created equal. Many Italian and French flours are made from soft wheat, which is lower in protein than the hard red wheat grown in the U.S. A lower protein content results in lower gluten. Beyond the gluten content, we must also look at how the wheat is grown and processed. Here’s why.
The wheat grown in the U.S. has been modified over time, which has increased its gluten content. I learned the following from Chef Marc Vetri in his book Mastering Pasta.
"Modern wheat, tritosum estavium (TSVM), is the same wheat species that has been used to make bread for at least 1000 years. What changed in the 1960s is that new varieties of TSVM were developed (using traditional plant breeding techniques) that could withstand higher levels of chemical fertilizers and modern harvesting."
He goes on to say, "Those semi dwarf wheats helped increase production. But what may be more important is how these wheats led to a drastic reduction in the time it takes to turn dry flour into packaged baked goods. Wheat for making commodity flours has been specifically bred to withstand the high-speed mixing required for making bread products quickly on an industrial scale. This is good for production and profits but may not be so good for our health.
"First, we're adding excessive amounts of vital wheat gluten to bread products. Wheat gluten is basically refined white flour hydrated into dough and then washed of its starch, so you're left with a mass of almost 80% wheat protein. It's like pure gluten, which adds structure and elasticity to bread doughs and helps them rise faster – especially whole wheat bread doughs. Ironically, the added gluten may be making these healthy whole grain breads less tolerable to our digestive systems."
In addition to the type of wheat used to make flour, how the wheat is grown plays a role in the quality and how our bodies digest it. In the U.S., glyphosate, commonly known by its brand name Roundup, is a herbicide widely sprayed on wheat crops. It is used to control weeds, promote crop growth, and accelerate the drying and maturing process, making it easier to harvest the crop.
Regardless of these “advantages,” I think it goes without saying we don’t want to eat Roundup. While glyphosate use does occur in France and Italy, many companies are committed to using pesticide-free wheat. And they are transparent about where their wheat is sourced and how it is grown.
Many people believe the wheat modification and the use of glyphosate explain the significant increase in gluten sensitivity among the American population. So, it might not be the gluten’s fault. It might be the wheat.
To this point, it’s interesting that many pastas in Italy are made with flour from durum semolina wheat, which is high in protein and therefore high in gluten. Despite this, as I mentioned, people often report eating pasta in Italy without experiencing symptoms of gluten sensitivity, again suggesting that gluten may not be the culprit. It may be the quality of the flour used to make the pasta.
How the wheat is milled also influences the quality of the flour. The milling process in France and Italy involves a slower grind, which produces finely ground flour, helping to preserve more of the wheat's natural flavor and nutrients. The result is a more nutritious, lighter, and easier-to-digest final product, and many chefs agree it is more flavorful.
When researching flour and gluten, we can find ourselves in a spiderweb of information. Instead of trying to wade through it, I found the answer in my own experiences. It may be as simple as trying and seeing for yourself. Even if you don't have gluten sensitivity, it's wise to steer clear of glyphosate and high levels of gluten in modified wheat. Here is what others have to say about French and Italian flour:
Emma
5.0 out of 5 stars A Dream Come True!
Over the past year, I have developed severe food allergies to wheat, gluten, dairy, sugar, and more. Suddenly, anytime I tried to eat bread, my stomach would blow up, and I would burp constantly. Almost every 5 seconds for hours or even sometimes a couple days. I've been seeing all kinds of [doctors], both regular and Naturopaths. They all felt I had some kind of acid reflux/Gerd. But many were pointing out that it could be the glyphosate in the wheat. Roundup and Pesticides sprayed all over our foods. I did hear friends explain that when visiting Europe, they could eat all the bread and pasta they wanted and actually lost weight and never had any gut issues. I am learning that Monsanto is banned in Europe, so their food is much healthier than the U.S. I decided to give it a try and ordered this flour. My husband and I invited friends over for a pizza party. Our friends have family back in France and instantly recognized the cute little bags of flour. They said that is the correct size bag they sell in Europe. This flour made delicious pizza crust. Everyone got their own personal pizza to customize. I was able to eat my entire personal pizza with absolutely no tummy issues! Talk about a dream come true! Don't hesitate to try! I couldn't be happier!
You can read more testimonials here. Now, let's look at where you can find French and Italian Flour.
While Italian flour is often available in American grocery stores, not all brands maintain the same standards of quality. I recently removed a brand name from this post after learning that although they process their flour in Italy, they now import the wheat from Canada, where glyphosate is widely used. Unable to confirm whether that wheat contains glyphosate, I opted to remove it from my recommendations.
Reviewing company websites will help you discern quality. Transparent information about ingredients and manufacturing processes can help you make informed choices. Fortunately, high-quality French and Italian flours are easy to find in the U.S. online and in specialty shops.
One example of a company that is transparent about where the wheat is grown and processed is Molino Camema from Italy. “Molino Camema guarantees that their wheat and grain are grown and milled in the Altamura area, Puglia. Certified organic." Monlina Camema flour is also IGP certified, which means it has been awarded a quality designation and adheres to high standards of ingredients and production.
You can find quality Italian flour at online shopping sites like Italian Harvest and Supermarket Italy. Italian flour is used for baking and cooking. If you enjoy making homemade pizza dough, type 00 flour from Italy will produce a light and crispy crust.
My preferred brand of French Flour is Francine. There are several options to choose from. The three I use most often are the Francine Fluide, Supreme T45, and Blé type T45. The Fluide or Supreme T45 flours are lighter and are ideal for making light French Crêpes with a slight crispiness. All three of these flours are all-purpose flours that can be used for baking and cooking.
The Fluide and Supreme are slightly finer and designed to be lump-free. They cost a bit more than the Blé type T45, so if you want to save a few dollars, try this easy tip: when using the Blé type T45 to make a batter like for French crêpes or a quiche, let the batter sit for a while, and it will be lump-free.
Francine brand French flour can be found online at Amazon. However, you can find better prices at online specialty shops like My Panier, Supermarket Italy, and Yummy Bazaar.
You can also find fine French and Italian flour at local specialty shops, where knowledgeable staff can help you select the right flour for your needs.
If you spot Italian or French flours at your local grocery store, take a moment to check the brand’s website. See if they’re transparent about where their wheat is sourced and how their flour is made. You might discover some high-quality options right in your neighborhood.
If you become a fan of French and Italian flour like I did, you can try making pasta at home. Or, look for pasta that carries the IGP certification and is made with high-quality Italian flour. You can learn more about buying pasta here.
While you can find flour and dried pasta at your local grocery store, they may not be of the same caliber as what you can get online. Also, if they're imported, they can be more expensive at the grocery, so it's worth looking online for quality and pricing. In addition, many of the best products never make it to the grocery store, so we have to go and find them.
If you enjoyed this information, you will enjoy the chapter in my book about shopping for quality ingredients — including more about online shopping. You can sign up here to be notified when my book is released.
Al Dente Cooking Pasta to Perfection
Thank you for your valuable and informative article. As someone who is gluten intolerant (from NZ, where roundup is still sadly used) I have found I can eat French flour & have been wondering about Italian flours.
Your article is very helpful.????????
Thank you for sharing your story! Switching to French flour has been a game changer for so many. If you try Italian flour, I would love to know if you are able to tolerate it as well as French flour. Ciao!